Blackspur Dt100 Manual Dexterity
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The nickname is because I couldn't spell 'Frobscottle'. Loving getting back into electronics as a hobby after a break of many years. Now I work as an EPOS engineer, so I spend my days fixing tills in shops and restaurants, and it feels like I'm doing something I'm actually good at for a living instead of trying to do things I'm not good at! I like to turn my hands to all sorts of things - woodworking, engineering, sewing, cooking, even leatherwork!
I occasionally write bad poetry an.Read More ». Well, slightly disastrous - my magnet's end pieces are glued very strongly so the magnet sheared instead of separating. Broken magnet is sharp and bites - ouch!
Went ahead and drilled the middle anyway. The hole's a bit skewed because I was using a battery drill and rushing somewhat due to excitement! M8 is the biggest bolt I have to hand. I left it sticking out and added a lock nut as Tinker001 suggested because I thought the clamp is crimped on my very cheap welder. Turns out I was wrong, but it's attached with a small screw. So I think I will put a copper bolt in the magnet and tap it to take that small screw.
Manual Dexterity Meaning
Might improve striking! So now I just need to wait for the weather to dry out and try welding something!.
You have made the holder I was wanting to make for years! But having to hand drill all the holes is off-putting. I use 2ml centrifuge tubes for my (reclaimed) SMD stock. Trouble is, I'm up to 200 tubes now and counting! I keep them in baggies.I like the stackable legs you have designed, they are pretty neat. I like the nice informational labels too.
I just hand-write minimal information on my tubes - values for R's and C's, top marking and component type for semiconductors. Maybe I will try to make some nice informational labels like yours, though it's a bit limited when everything's reclaimed.Keep up the good work!. Great instructable. When I was at college in the early '80's I spent the summer doing a project on lasers (the gas or ruby sort, I don't think laser diodes were quite there yet. Dye lasers were also invented about then but too late for my project) and learnt all about holograms at the same time, which were still a new thing and utterly fascinating. I didn't see creating one as something that would be possible for me to do both in cost, (since a helium-neon laser tube available at the time cost about £200 (and that in 1980's money - I dread to think the equivalent cost now!)) and practical setup (my teenage bedroom) before even getting to the beam splitter and photographic plates and optical bench requirements.So kudos on making this practical for anyone to try!.
Wow I didn't think anyone was interested in this!I'm using the acid copper plating solution from Classic Plating, they sell the stuff through eBay as a complete kit or refils. So it's de-ionised water, sulphuric acid, copper sulphate and some additives.
They include a very comprehensive manual too. Gives excellent plating, highly recommend. I use it to do through-hole plating of PCB's, holes down to 0.6mm so far have come out good, will be going smaller but I need a better recipe for my conductive ink (doesn't have good enough adhesion).I'm using the current recommended by Classic Plating of 200mA per square inch. 30 to 40 minutes in the tank gives me about the right thickness.Thanks for the question!.
Thanks for an informative instructable!I'm wanting to connect a VGA camera, the sort you find as a little module on eBay with OVPxxxx chip, to a screen such as ILxxxx family, which appears to have direct VGA input. I think it will work if I connect the camera directly with no MCU, but I'd also like to add a cross-hair to the display (for a drill targetting system). I wonder is it possible to intercept the serial video data and change individual pixels in a streaming fashion, instead of loading a whole screen into memory, changing it and passing it on?
I ask because it seems to me it would need a much less powerful MCU. Hi thereThe circuit relies on Ohm's law, which states that the voltage across a resistance is directly proportional to the current passing through it. I assume you are familiar with V=I.R.Perhaps you are less familiar with op-amps, in which case, briefly, (in a linear (ie, normal) feedback scenario) the output voltage of an op-amp is directly proportional to the voltage at it's non-inverting input, or inversely proportional to the voltage at it's inverting input. If the op-amp doesn't have some negative feedback the output will try to go to either supply rail with even the tiniest difference in input voltages. With feedback, it will always changed it's output to try and make it's inputs equal.The mosfet transistor is there to provide a substantial current path for the load. You needn't.Hi thereThe circuit relies on Ohm's law, which states that the voltage across a resistance is directly proportional to the current passing through it. I assume you are familiar with V=I.R.Perhaps you are less familiar with op-amps, in which case, briefly, (in a linear (ie, normal) feedback scenario) the output voltage of an op-amp is directly proportional to the voltage at it's non-inverting input, or inversely proportional to the voltage at it's inverting input.
If the op-amp doesn't have some negative feedback the output will try to go to either supply rail with even the tiniest difference in input voltages. With feedback, it will always changed it's output to try and make it's inputs equal.The mosfet transistor is there to provide a substantial current path for the load. You needn't worry about it's inner workings. An increase in voltage on it's gate results in an increase in the current flowing between it's drain and source (this is called transimpedance).Resistor R2 is to prevent some effects which can occur due to the gate capacitance of the mosfet.The first op-amp, U1a, exists solely as a buffer (ie, it has 100% negative feedback resulting in unity gain) for the potentiometer, it's only being used here because it's a dual op-amp package and it's better to connect it into the circuit. Only 1 of the op-amps is shown with power connected because there is only one set of power pins between the 2 of them.The two diodes in series act as a voltage reference. The exact voltage isn't important, though it would be better with a more stable reference. The potential divider which includes the potentiometer is arranged so that the maximum voltage available corresponds to the voltage which will appear across R3 at the maximum current of interest.So, you set the potentiometer to some value, and connect a power source across the terminals Conn1 and Conn2.
Current will flow, and if enough current is available from the source, a voltage will appear across R3 which is equal to the voltage you set. Remember the op-amp tries to make it's inputs be at equal voltages, so at this point it's happy. Any more current flowing through the the mosfet and R3 however, will result in a higher voltage being applied to the inverting input than the voltage you set, so the op-amp will reduce it's output voltage, which in turn will reduce the current flowing, causing the feedback voltage to also reduce. So again it's happy. The converse is true if the current through the mosfet and R3 should reduce for any reason: the voltage across R3 will also reduce, so the op-amp will try to make it go up again by adjusting it's output upwards.